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What to eat in Jorhat: a guide to Assamese food
Quick answer
In Jorhat, order a traditional Assamese thali. It usually starts with khar, an alkaline dish made with banana-peel ash, and ends with masor tenga, a light sour fish curry. In between come pitikas (mashes), greens and dal.
Also try:
- duck or pork with bamboo shoot
- jolpan for breakfast (flattened rice, curd and jaggery)
- pitha rice cakes, especially at Bihu
Assamese food is gentle on spice but rich in flavour. It uses mustard oil, fresh herbs, fermented bamboo shoot (khorisa) and sour fruits like elephant apple (ou tenga). It's one of India's most underrated cuisines, and Jorhat, at the heart of Ahom country, is a good place to try it.
How a traditional meal flows
1. Khar: an alkaline preparation of raw papaya, ash gourd or greens, cooked with khar made from sun-dried banana-peel ash. It opens the meal.
2. Pitika: mashes of potato (aloo pitika), aubergine, roasted fish or tomato, with mustard oil, onion and green chilli.
3. Bhaji and dal: seasonal greens, simple lentils.
4. Meat or fish: duck curry (often with ash gourd or black sesame), pork with bamboo shoot, chicken.
5. Masor tenga: the sour fish curry, made with tomato, lemon or elephant apple rather than tamarind. Traditionally it closes the meal.
Rice is the base throughout. Meals were traditionally served on bell-metal plates.
Dishes to look for
- Masor tenga: the signature dish. Ask for it with ou tenga (elephant apple) in season.
- Hanhor mangxo: duck curry, a festive favourite.
- Gahori aru baanhgaj: pork with bamboo shoot. Pungent and addictive.
- Aloo pitika: mashed potato with mustard oil. Simple and comforting.
- Fish in banana leaf, steamed or roasted.
- Silkworm (polu) in some homes and tribal kitchens, for the adventurous.
Breakfast and snacks: jolpan and pitha
Jolpan is the traditional Assamese breakfast spread: chira (flattened rice), muri (puffed rice), akhoi, or doi-chira with curd and jaggery. Pitha are rice cakes: til pitha with sesame and jaggery, ghila pitha, narikol (coconut) pitha. They appear everywhere during Bhogali Bihu in January.
Vegetarians
Assamese food has plenty for vegetarians: khar, pitikas, bhaji, dal, ou tenga, and jolpan and pitha.
Drink
A strong cup of Assam tea, of course. See our tea garden guide. On Majuli and in tribal villages you may be offered apong, a rice beer, as part of hospitality.
Where to eat
Look for small local "hotels" (eateries) serving Assamese thalis at lunch, and dhabas on the highways for duck and pork. Places change quickly, so ask your host for this month's favourites.
Where to stay: NOI Homes, central Jorhat
NOI Homes is a boutique homestay on J.B. Road in central Jorhat. There are two 2BHK apartments, each for up to six guests. NOI Homes Elite is always let as the whole apartment, with two bedrooms (Khwaab and Gulmohar). NOI Homes Privé can be booked whole, or as private rooms: Rajwada, the master suite, and Sukoon, the cosy room.
At NOI Homes, home-cooked Assamese meals can be arranged on request at an extra charge. It's the easiest way to try a proper khar-to-tenga meal. Our kitchens are fully equipped if you'd rather cook yourself.
Every stay includes Wi-Fi, free on-site parking, a fully equipped kitchen and 24×7 on-site help. Breakfast and home-cooked Assamese meals are available on request at an extra charge. See the rooms in the catalogue, or check availability.
Planning dates? Message us with your dates and number of guests. We reply on WhatsApp.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most famous food of Assam?
Masor tenga, a light sour fish curry, is the best known. Khar, pitika, duck curry and pork with bamboo shoot are also signature dishes.
What is khar in Assamese food?
Khar is an alkaline liquid made by filtering water through the ash of sun-dried banana peel. It also names the class of dishes cooked with it, which traditionally begin a meal.
Is Assamese food spicy?
Generally no. It's mild, with flavour from mustard oil, herbs, sour fruits and fermented bamboo shoot. Some dishes use bhoot jolokia (ghost chilli), so ask.
What is jolpan?
The traditional Assamese breakfast or snack spread, based on chira (flattened rice), muri (puffed rice) or other rice preparations, with curd and jaggery.
Timings, fares and seasonal openings in Assam change often. We check our posts regularly, but please confirm locally before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us on WhatsApp.